Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
After sanding do not touch that area. At this point I transfer small pieces between stations using tweezers.
Step 2: Soldering Set-up
If I were to place the jaws lower down on the post, it wouldn’t allow the post to get hot enough to help the solder flow. Too high and I would be exposing the fragile post.
Step 3: Applying the Flux
Everybody has a preference when it comes to flux so we keep a paste and a spray in our jewelry studio at all times. I like to use the paste on small pieces and the spray on large pieces. Flux can cause build-up on soldering boards if you use too much.
Step 4: The Flame
Notice where the solder piece is positioned relative to the flame. Solder flows toward the heat source. So, by having the solder on one side of the post and the flame on the opposite side, the solder will flow towards the flame and right into the join.
Step 5: Pickling
Before dropping it into your pickle pot, let it cool down for several minutes. The bubbles created when dropping it straight into the pickle can actually pop the pieces apart.
Step 6: Finishing
The post shown has the sterling silver (.925) mark on it. Make sure you don’t remove this while finishing your piece. I use flat nose pliers to protect it when I’m finishing the piece.
- 1 = S1236 Sterling Silver Post, .9mm Post Thickness (Item #: S1236)
- 1 = SL252 Sterling Silver 7x5mm 24ga Small Heart Blank (Item #: SL252)
- Jewelry Torch
- 3rd Hand Tweezers
- Quench Bowl
- Copper Tongs
- Soldering Pick
- Medium Solder
- Soldering Board
- Pickle & Pickle Pot
- Sandpaper (600 or 800 Grit)
- Sandpaper disk
- 3M Radial Bristle Disks
- Rotary Tool (Flex Shaft or Dremel)
Once you’ve mastered soldering posts onto blanks, have fun shopping at JewelryCities.com for a wide array of jewelry findings you’ll want to solder together in your next post creation! Remember, you can often alter charms by using wire cutters to remove the hanging loop and filing away any remaining burs. They make great posts!
More: Buy 8mm Hoop Earrings Online